The Takegawara Onsen is a hot spring spa with a stylish Japanese façade and traditional baths. Still active today, the public bathhouse provides a glimpse into the Beppu of the late 19th century, when its tiled roof was made of thatched wood and bamboo. Do as the locals do and soak in the soothing thermal waters of the baths.
When you enter the bathhouse, notice the spacious and airy setting, which includes a wooden-planked floor and high ceilings. Marking the walls are Japanese symbols and artifacts. Chat with the friendly staff about the hot spring tradition in the region. Replace your clothes with a robe or scrubs in the wooden changing room and take a key for your locker.
In the room containing the main bath, spot the faded drawings on the tiles of the interior walls. Here, you’ll find a narrow semi-circular tub filled with the milky water that naturally rises from hot springs. Be careful not to touch the hot spring source.
Elder locals partake in the public bathing tradition, soaking their tired muscles in the hot water. Relax in one of the two sand baths in the larger hall. This blend is said to help with poor blood circulation and foot pain, among other ailments. Lie back while a staff member covers you in hot sand.
The spa opens daily from early morning until night. It closes on the third Wednesday of the month and on occasional maintenance days. There is an entrance fee, with an additional fee for the sand bath.
The Takegawara Onsen is in the Motomachi district, on the coast of Beppu Bay. Get off the train at the Beppu railway station and walk east for about 10 minutes to find the hot spring spa. Other highlights in the region include Kitahama Park, Tomishiro Yacht Club and Beppu Tower.