Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) forms the religious heart of the city of Wrocław even today, hundreds of years after the district was first founded. Explore its cathedral and churches during the day and amble along Katedralna Street at night when its antique gas lamps illuminate its cobblestones.
Cross the Oder River, named Odra in Polish, to get to Cathedral Island if you are coming from downtown Wrocław. The island’s original wooden bridges were part of the Amber Road, an ancient trade route that connected Venice with the Baltic States.
This former island in Lower Silesia was first settled by the Ślężanie, a Slavic people. In the 11th century, it became a safe haven for the Piast dynasty, who built a castle and a cathedral on the island. Three centuries later, Duke Henry IV moved the expanding city south of the river, but the cathedral remained. Until Napoleon’s troops took control around 1808, Cathedral Island was governed by the Catholic Church.
In spring or summer, start your explorations in the Botanical Garden of the University of Wroclaw (Ogród Botaniczny) to see how Cathedral Island is no longer an island today. The sprawling garden occupies a former tributary of the Oder River that was filled in by Napoleon’s French troops in 1810 with the rubble of the island’s star-shaped fort.
In central Katedralna Street, admire the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (Katedra św. Jana Chrzciciela) with its Gothic twin spires and jumble of green roofs. Inside, impressive stained-glass windows await, along with a 16th-century altarpiece and one of Poland’s largest organs. Take the elevator up to the tower for some of the best views in Wrocław.
Just outside the cathedral’s main portal is the former Archbishop’s Palace, which houses the Archdiocese Museum. A little farther along Katedralna Street, look up at the monument of John of Nepomuk with the Church of the Holy Cross as its backdrop. After dinner in one of the street’s cafés, follow the street out to the Church of Saints Peter & Paul.
A lamplighter still does the rounds here each night. For a romantic after-dinner experience, cross the “Lover’s Bridge”of Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge). From here, you can walk back to the city via Sand Island (Wyspa Piasek).
