As a summer residence of popes and a place once considered sacred by the Etruscans, Montefiascone has an impressive and varied history. The city stands in a commanding position on the highest point of the ridge surrounding Lake Bolsena and is situated just 65 miles (105 kilometers) to the north of Rome.
Take a walk up to the ruined Rocca Dei Papi, perched on the highest point of the hill. The fortress was a summer residence for Vatican popes. You can see for yourself why it was so attractive and safe to them, with its cool breezes and commanding views.
Below, the Montefiascone Cathedral, or Basilica of Santa Margherita, dominates the city center with its vast dome. Head inside to discover its treasure trove of frescos and sculptures. Make sure you don’t miss the crypt hidden away below.
Don’t forget to try the famous Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. During the 12th century, Canon Johannes Defuk of Augsburg, instructed his aid Martin to travel ahead of him to sample the local wine. Martin was instructed to write Est, short for “vinum est bonum,” on the doors of the places that served the best wine. The lackey rated the Montefiascone wine so highly that he wrote it not once but three times.
One of the legends goes on to tell that Canon Defuk drank himself to death. To see his grave, visit the crypt in the twin church of San Flaviano. What makes this 11th-century church so special is that it was topped with another church in the 14th century, the one that is visible today. The result is an unusual structure that will delight history and architecture buffs. San Flaviano's interior frescos are well worth seeing too.
Drive down along the panoramic road to the lakeshore of Lake Bolsena. It offers views across the lake to the islands and surrounding hills. Have a meal at one of the lakeside cafés or take a stroll along the shore. To really immerse yourself in the scenery, take a boat trip around the lake.
Montefiascone may be small but it packs a punch with its history, architecture and beautiful vistas and it is easy to see why popes chose to live here. Just make sure you don’t drink too much Est! Est!! Est!!!, or you too might never leave.
