Kapuzinerberg Hill

Although the Austrian Alps loom close to Salzburg, you don't need to make that relatively short drive southwards to get a fix of clean mountain air and spectacular views. The mountains have come to Salzburg, in the shape of Kapuzinerberg, a tree-lined ridge right in the heart of the city. Unlike Salzburg's other dramatic mountain on the Salzach's left bank (Festungsberg) Kapuzinerberg isn't sprawled over by a large castle complex. Instead it offers unspoilt woods, long treks and the challenge of climbing the 220 metres from the river to its summit.

Wildlife can be found within a few minutes of the bustle of central Salzburg here—go quietly and you could spot pine martins, deer, badgers and even chamois. There are several way-marked routes to take through its beech woods, some leading to quite meadows, others to historic sights.

One of the most impressive is one of the easiest to reach—the Kapuzinerkloster, or Kapuzin Cloister. This Abbey for the Capuchin monks was built in 1594 and lies close to the Old Town, not too far up the Kapuzinerberg's steep slope. It also has a good view back onto that ancient part of the city. Deeper into the woods, and further up the slopes, is a memorial plaque for Mozart (he often came here for musical inspiration) and the remnants of many old artillery emplacements.

The best view to be had from Kapuzinerberg requires a bit more stamina, but is well worth the effort. Franziskischlossl, or Francis′ Castle, was built in 1629 and is a small outpost right at the summit. It was once part of the wider fortifications of Kapuzinerberg, thrown up by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron in the 17th century. You're likely to find the remains of those walls all over the mountain. But Franziskischlossl is special. First, because it's now a friendly inn, with refreshments and hospitality on tap to quickly recharge you, after your exertions. And second, as the highest point in Salzburg, the views from here are unparalleled.

With so much to see, and fine food and drink close by, you may find going down Kapuzinerberg harder than getting up.