You won’t need directions to find the Clermont-Ferrand Cathedral. See the twin black stone spires of this Gothic structure from all over the city. They stand at 315.2 feet (96.1 meters) high. The dark façade contrasts with stained-glass windows in blues, reds, pinks and purples, and the combination is truly arresting.
Although building work began on the cathedral in 1248, it remained unfinished until 1902. The stained-glass windows, depicting saints and martyrs, date from the 13th and 14th centuries. Inside the cathedral you will find a 16th-century clock that sounds when automatons of Mars and Faunus beat the head of Old Man Time. See some of France’s best-preserved medieval frescoes here too.
During the French Revolution, the cathedral was turned into a Temple of Reason. Pause to imagine how many paintings and statues were burnt during this time. Most of the old bells were also melted down.
Today, the highlights of the cathedral are the chapels which surround the choir. These hold the most magnificent frescoes and the best of the stained glass. Venture beneath the choir to enter the crypt, the only remaining part of an earlier cathedral. Find two ornately carved early Christian sarcophagi here, one in white marble from the 4th century and one from the 5th or 6th.
The great organ is also something to behold. It curves perfectly around the windows as it was designed and built at the same time as that part of the cathedral. Listen to it after mass and enjoy its stunning acoustics.
On rainy days water flows from the mouths of the gargoyles that adorn the outside of the cathedral. If the weather is looking good, scale the cathedral’s Bayette Tower for amazing views of the city.
Clermont-Ferrand Cathedral is located on Place de la Victoire, in the city center. Mass is held daily and it is open to the public every day except for a break at midday. You can only visit in the late afternoon on Sundays and bank holidays. To see the cathedral fully, allow around 30 minutes for your visit.
