Known as the location of military dictator Francisco Franco’s wedding, the Church of San Juan (Iglesia de San Juan el Real) is an iconic basilica with a fascinating past. Due to its significant place in history, the Pope elevated its status from a church to a minor basilica in 2014, marking its centenary year. Enjoy the serene ambiance and imagine the proceedings of Franco’s wedding in 1923.
Gaze up at the magnificent light red façade, with its patterns of rose windows and twin bell towers on the flanks. Two large pillars rise up the red brick frontage between the portals and the towers. See the majestic church façade in the evening, when its domes and pillars are bathed in golden light. At night, the lights help to emphasize the cross at the top of the building, the external stained glass and the religious statues on the side towers.
Climb up the small set of outdoor steps and walk through the middle door of the three arched brown portals to enter the basilica’s vast nave. Admire the fabulous stained-glass windows that portray a range of biblical scenarios and allow colorful light to permeate and fill the nave. Beneath the stained-glass panels lie the intricate carvings of the altarpiece. Inspect the figures in glass boxes that adorn the walls.
Read up about the Spanish Civil War and General Franco’s oppressive regime. His wife, Carmen Polo, was raised in Oviedo and her family frequented the Church of San Juan. Note that the wedding was initially postponed due to Franco’s promotion in the military ranks, before eventually taking place at a later date.
The Church of San Juan el Real is in the heart of the historic center of Oviedo. Walk southeast from the Oviedo train station for 5 minutes to reach the basilica. Make sure to see some of the sights in the area, such as the Campo de San Francisco park and the Oviedo Cathedral.