The Chapel of St.-Aurélien, hidden in the narrow streets of Limoges’ Quartier de la Boucherie (Butchers’ District), is a magnificent reward for any traveler who goes looking for it.
Built in 1475 to hold the relics of St. Aurélien, a 15th-century saint who served as a bishop in Limoges, it is now a charming example of Limousin’s religious architecture. Feel the neighborhood’s devotion as you look upon the stones, carefully preserved through centuries as expressions of the local butchers’ guild’s faith in their patron saint.
Wander down the cobbled streets and be surprised by the church, as its outdoor decoration appears unexpectedly between the half-timbered medieval buildings lining the streets. Gaze at the top of the church to see its elaborate dome constructed out of slats of chestnut wood. Two larger-than-life statues outside depict St. John and St. Catherine of Alexandria.
Examine the intricate carvings of the monolithic cross. Before the French Revolution, it stood outside the region’s famous Carmine monastery. Before slipping in the door, try to identify the portrait of St. Aurélien above the portal, now much faded over time.
Linger in this small church to appreciate its finer details. Walk slowly down the nave as you look at the stained glass and appreciate the ornate, Baroque detailing, added during the 17th-century expansion of the church.
Observe the green-and-white flag of the Butchers’ Guild, manifestation of the pride that the brotherhood holds in the church.
Pause before the elaborate altarpiece. Its central panel is a local copy of a Raphaël painting depicting the Transfiguration. Rumor suggests that St Aurélien’s relics, so important to this church and its people, lie concealed behind it.
Find the Chapel of St-Aurélien nestled in Old Town Limoges, a 20-minute walk from the train station or a 15-minute walk from St.-Étienne Cathedral. The closest parking is available in a structure near Les Halles. The chapel is open daily. Organize a guided tour through the Limoges Tourism Office. Visit the chapel for free on sunny days, but feed in a small coin to turn on the lights when skies are overcast.
