Feeling fit? Head to the 168 Stairs, a steep staircase that takes you high up into the South Korean village of Choryang in the Dong district, just inland of Busan Station. Don’t worry if you’re not up for the challenge, you can take the monorail instead.
The gu (district) of Dong was a place of refuge during the Korean War and the new arrivals settled on this hill near the port, creating a whole new village. The concrete steps were later added by the residents of Sanbok Road because they had to climb the hill daily after getting water from the wells at the bottom of the hill.
The once run-down village has been given a bit of an upgrade in recent years and colorful flowers, painted roof terraces and artworks now brighten up the 168 Stairs. Choryang is actually nicest to visit just after dark, when the lights in the houses come on.
Follow the signposted walking tour along Ibagu-gil (“Story Road”) that takes pedestrians along nearly a mile (1.5 kilometers) of back alleys and up the stairs. Since the “Story Way” program was introduced in 2013, outdoor gallery walls on local buildings show pictures and maps of Choryang-dong’s development milestones in the past and present.
As you climb up the 168 Stairs, imagine having to carry gallons of water on your back, as the villagers used to do until a solution finally arrived in 2016. That year, a scenic monorail was added to connect lower Choryang-dong to the upper village. To use it, come during the day or early evening, because it stops running halfway through the night.
From the top stairs or the monorail station platform, you can look out over the port and the illuminated Diamond Bridge, a suspension bridge that connects Haeundae-gu to Suyeong-gu. While here, also visit the Choryang Ibagu Night Market to sample the fresh seafood and other Japanese and Korean street food.
The 168 Stairs is in Choryang, which is close to Busan Jungang Park. Since 2004, the high-speed KTX train connects Busan Station to the capital Seoul and other parts of South Korea. The Busan Port International Passenger Terminal was finished in 2011 and offers another option of how to get here.